Old Legs Tour Angola 2024 – Day 10

So, with the Captain well and truly Christophered, another ride captain had to be elected, and that came in the form of our guide extraordinaire, Gus, the Plant Hunter Lebreton.

Mongu was the last town we would see for the next eight days, and with burst tyres, no fuel, and depleted food, the vehicles and support crew needed to stay back, leaving the riders to cycle the first section unsupported.  A  little worse for wear, they waved us off as we set out, excited to be back in the saddle again.

The road out of Mongu was tar and downhill, making for a great warm-up for the day ahead. Then the tar suddenly ended, and we found on a sandy beach, staring across a river. A rickety bridge beckoned us into the heart of the Barotse Floodplains. Excitement bubbled as we realised this was the start of something truly epic.

Also known as Barotseland Plains, they are one of Africa’s largest wetlands, a vast, flat, and fertile region in western Zambia, covering an enormous 5,000 square kilometres. Situated in the Zambezi River valley, they are flooded annually by the river’s waters.  The floodplains act as a natural sponge, absorbing excess water during rainy seasons and gradually releasing it, helping to regulate water levels downstream, supporting a diverse range of plant and animal life.

Nick was in birder’s paradise, his eyes wide with excitement as he tracked the soaring raptors above us.  He may not be able to see his Garmin without glasses, but he has an eagle eye when it comes to bird spotting. Every now and again, he would pause, thinking about his big brother missing out on the adventure, and say, “Ah, I feel sad for Ad.”  He was so right; the criss-crossing of paths, makeshift bridge crossings, and phenomenal scenery were definitely something Adam would find epic.

The air was thick with laughter as the cyclists traded playful banter. Dave was on form. After several epic bails in the sand and on the hills, he has now mastered the art of navigating the sandy trails and bush paths, his bike dancing effortlessly over the terrain.  Having trained on tar roads, the African landscape takes some getting used to, but Dave has truly settled into the pack!

Our fearless leader, Gus, was determined to make sure we stayed on track and kept together, telling us stories along the way. He pointed out that the Liuwa Plains, a protected part of the Baro

tse floodplains, were about 40 km west of us and looked exactly the same but were full of wildlife.  It is clear where Gus got his adventurous spirit. His great-grandfather, Aubyn Trevor-Battye, was a legendary figure—a true Renaissance man who mastered writing, art, and music while also being a pioneering botanist. In 1906, he ventured into the heart of Barotseland, driven by an insatiable curiosity. His legacy, a rich tapestry of words, images, and melodies, continues to inspire. Gus, his great-grandson, proudly carries the torch, exploring Africa’s botanical wonders as the modern-day African Plant Hunter.

By 11 am, our ride snacks were history.  Our legs were burning, and our stomachs grumbled as we scanned the horizon for any sign of our support vehicles.  Then, a glimmer of hope appeared:  Alastair found a magnificent mango tree and suggested that we stop and wait there.  But with only 3 km off 50 km, we decided to press on to the next mango tree.  And what a good call that was!

We happened upon a school filled with children and a water pump. Alastair delightedly raced towards the pump, diving under the tap for a refreshing shower, as the children laughed with a gleeful disbelief. The Watermeyer brothers are known to say, “You’re never too old to have a happy childhood,” a philosophy they wholeheartedly embody!

Meanwhile, back in the support vehicles, the crew were starting to fret. They knew our supplies would be dwindling and were fully expecting to confront a pack of grumpy, hungry, crotchety Old Legs. Little did they know, stretched out in the shade of a mango tree, we were Doing Epic in style.  By the time they caught up with us, Nick was snoring a symphony, Jaime was lost in a world of dreams, and the rest of us were soaking up the peace, elated after conquering the Barotse plains.

And our adventure was only just beginning. Ahead lay a challenging mix of bumpy rides, potholed roads, tree-canopied pathways, and endless sand (of course). Getting stuck was inevitable, but we had an ace up our sleeve: Linda, our very own Lady Dakar.  She’s a force to be reckoned with, effortlessly pulling the white Isuzu (with trailer) and our trusty truck Christopher out of the sand. Lady Dakar doesn’t just conquer sand – she chews it for breakfast!

The Zambian people are warm and friendly, their smiles and genuine concern were a constant source of encouragement as we tackled the challenging terrain. We were repeatedly amazed by their kindness. With bright smiles, they ran out to meet us, warning us of impending dangers like bad roads, quicksand, and treacherous passes.  We met David, who hailed from Livingstone, who selflessly ran ahead of our car for ages, guiding us through the deep sand. Later, another kind Zambian pointed us toward a harder surface, ensuring our safe passage.

After a day filled with adventure, sand, tree-whipped faces, and two punctures, we were ecstatic to arrive at Barotse Tiger Safari. El and her lovely daughter welcomed us with open arms, treating us to incredible hospitality. The food was nothing short of spectacular, with generous portions and a delightful variety. And for dessert? The pièce de resistance – Malva pudding and custard!  It was the perfect ending to an unforgettable day.

Days 11 & 12 loading soon.  Until then,

Have Fun, Do Good, Do Epic!

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